Topography
Large complexes of species-rich meadows with scattered trees and shrubs, reminding of an English park are characteristic of the southwestern part. National Nature Reserve Čertoryje and the adjacent Vojšické louky near Radějov, and Přední louky, stretching out over an area of nearly 1000 ha east of the village of Suchov, belong to the largest.
The wine cellars at Petrov called Plže, the traditional Horňácko Folklore Festival at Velká nad Veličkou and the Strážnice Festival prove that the cultural wealth of the region is still alive.
The wide surroundings of Starý Hrozenkov in the central part are called Moravské Kopanice. It is an area that received its current appearance much later (17th and 18th centuries) through colonisation by the Wallachians. The scattered farmhouses surrounded by orchards, arable fields, meadows and pastures give the scenery an incomparably cosy atmosphere. Songs, folk costumes and customs are not only seen and heard at the Kopanice Festivals but in the time of carnival and at Easter as well. West of the village of Strání, the highest peak of this range, Mount Velká Javořina (970 m), is situated.
The northeastern part of the area, in the surroundings of Valašské Klobouky and Brumov-Bylnice, is called South Wallachia after their colonisers. The landscape is of a more mountainous nature reminding the adjacent Beskid Mts. The large areas of semi-natural beech forests around the Vlára pass belong to the best conserved woodlands of the Czech Republic.
Geology
The White Carpathians are based on Magura flysch - impermeable sedimentary rock consisting of mainly calcareous clay and sandstone. The impermeability of these formations causes rapid surface run-off resulting in minor groundwater accumulation and the occurrence of many small flushes and some mineral springs. Almost the entire area is subject to water erosion and landslides.
The area generally shows a moderate relief with broad flat mountain ridges cut by stream valleys.
The predominant soil types are brown soils (Cambisol), with rare occurrence of Chernozem and Phaeozem soils. In floodplains Fluvisol and around springs Glaysol soils occur.
Hydrology
Rainwater falling on the area drains to the Morava and Váh basins. The watershed between these basins follows for the greater part the main ridge of the White Carpathian mountain system. An exception is made by the Vlára river and its tributaries, which by means of backward erosion intersects the main ridge and causes water of the former Morava basin to drain into the basin of river Váh.
The longest river of the area is the Vlára with a length of 47 km, through which also the largest volume of water drains. Other significant streams are the Olšava and Velička rivers. In southern parts of the territory some streams frequently dry up in summers.
Biotic features
One of the important factors contributing to the high biodiversity of the White Carpathians is its favourable position, which enables Carpathian mountain species to be enriched with thermophilous species from the Pannonian region and the Balkan as well as with Western European species.
The White Carpathians (Czech territory) can be divided into four phytogeographical regions. The warmer and drier White Carpathian Steppe district in the foothill area between Sudoměřice and Bojkovice is part of the Pannonian Thermophyticum. The remainder belongs to the Carpathian Mesophyticum with a cooler and more humid climate. This includes three districts, the largest being the White Carpathian Forest district, in the north completed by the Javorníky and Zlín districts.
Vegetation
The White Carpathian Steppe district includes small areas of thermophilous oak forests (Corno-Quercetum and Potentillo albae-Quercetum). However, Pannonian oak-hornbeam forests (Primulo veris-Carpinetum) prevail here together with Carpathian oak-hornbeam forests (Carici pilosae-Carpinetum), which are also found at lower elevations in the other districts. At higher altitudes (roughly above 500 m) herb-rich beech forests (Carici pilosae-Fagetum) are found. In the highest positions (e.g. on Mt. Velká Javořina) they belong to the Dentario enneaphylli-Fagetum association or are replaced by ravine forests (Lunario-Aceretum). Characteristic of the Javorníky district is the occurrence of silver fir (Abies alba).
The most typical non-forest vegetation of the White Carpathian Mts. are very species-rich, broad-leaved dry grasslands (Cirsio-Brachypodion pinnati). On humid sites Molinion grasslands are found. Around trees, along hedges and close to woodland dry herbaceous fringes (Geranion sanguinei) occur in the White Carpathian Steppe district, elsewhere they mesic herbaceous fringes (Trifolion medii) are found. At higher elevations, on more acid, shallow soils, less species-rich grazed meadows (Cynosurion, in the extreme north Violion caninae) are the prevailing grassland vegetation.
A typical element of meadows and pastures are also springs and marshes. Their vegetation differs according to water dynamics and chemistry. Along small rivers wet Cirsum meadow vegetation (Calthion) is commonly developed, but when mowing is abandoned they pass into Junco inflexi-Menthetum vegetation. Sites with organogenic substrates show a Caricion davallianae vegetation.
Weed communities are another special feature of the White Carpathians. They are found on the numerous small private fields where hardly any fertilisers and pesticides are used. In the steppic zone on calcareous soils they belong to the Caucalidion lappulae association, elsewhere they can be classified as Aphanion communities.
Because of the richness in habitats, both flora and fauna of the area are very diverse.
Fruit tree diversity
Also old orchards and solitary fruit-trees form an indivisible part of the White Carpathian countryside. These are, however, gradually disappearing and being replaced by modern cultivars.
Since the beginning of the 1990s, local varieties of the region have been identified and preserved. So far, more than 600 trees of local or rare old cultivars of apple, pear, cherry, plum and service tree (Sorbus domestica) have been documented.
In 1991 a three-hectare large genebank orchard was founded at the village of Velká nad Veličkou, to which grafts of the identified fruit-trees were introduced with the aim of preserving disappearing cultivars. This orchard is the first phase in an effort to return local cultivars to the countryside. Some of them have already been reproduced further and found their way to orchards, the surroundings of villages, road verges and bio-corridors.
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